Ice climbing in Ala-Archa

Climb Alpine Ice in the best location in Central Asia
Ice climbing in
Ala-Archa
Climb Alpine Ice in the best location in
Central Asia
About the program
During the program you will learn how to climb ice fast and safe. The program is customized based on your experience, the routes you are going to climb, and the time available.
With the beginners, we will start with the basics of ice climbing. We will learn how to use crampons and ice tools, how to set ice screws and make Abalakov threads for descending from ice routes.
If you already have experience in ice climbing, we can skip the introductory part and move onto more challenging routes. In Ala-Archa, there are options for climbers of all skill levels.
Dates
From September to March
Duration
Upon request
Location
Ala-Archa, Kyrgyzstan
Cost
Upon request
  • Dates
    From September to March
  • Duration
    Upon request
  • Location
    Ala-Archa, Kyrgyzstan
  • Cost
    Upon request

Ala-Archa

One of the best places for alpine ice climbing and technical mountaineering in Central Asia is Ala-Archa. It's is a cult place in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
Here are dozens of routes, ranging from easy ones suitable for beginners to challenging big walls. The relief here is mostly mixed, but there are also purely rocky routes and ice routes.

Free Korea, Korona, Semenov-Tien-Shansky, Baychechekey, Box and others are the peaks of the Ak-Sai gorge. Here are the famous routes of Low and Barber to "Korea" and many others.

Altitudes up to 4,800 meters require a short period of acclimatization. This makes them accessible through a properly structured training process, with our guidance.

Here you can climb all year round:
On mixed routes from September to March
On rocky routes from May to the end of September
On ice routes from September to March

Guidebook on Alpine Routes in Ala-Archa
  • Program / Schedule
    The program is customized based on your experience, the routes you are going to climb, and the time available

    Here is an 8-day program for intermediate climbers, featuring three classic winter routes of Ala-Archa:

    • Day 1 - Meet in Bishkek, drive to Ala-Archa, hike to Razek Hut (around 4-6 hours)
    • Day 2 - Training on a glacier
    • Day 3 - Climb Akimov route on "Korona Fence" (5 pitches of 50° ice)
    • Day 4 - Rest day
    • Day 5 - Climb Plotnikov route on "Korona Fence" (9 pitches of 50° ice)
    • Day 6 - Rest day
    • Day 7 - Climb the "River" route to "Baychechekey" (10 pitches up to 80° at the crux)
    • Day 8 - Coming back to Bishkek


    A more challenging program, featuring the "Barber" route to "Svobodnaya Korea" peak:

    • Day 1 - Meet in Bishkek, drive to Ala-Archa, Hike to Razek Hut (around 4-6 hours)
    • Day 2 - Training on a glacier
    • Day 3 - Climb Akimov route on "Korona Fence" (5 pitches of 50° ice)
    • Day 4 - Climb the "River" route to "Baychechekey" (10 pitches up to 80° at the crux)
    • Day 5 - Rest day
    • Day 6 - Climb Plotnikov route on "Korona Fence" (9 pitches of 50° ice), coming back to Bishkek
    • Day 7 - Rest day in the city
    • Day 8 - Rest day in the city
    • Day 9 - Drive to Ala-Archa, hike to Korona Hut
    • Day 10 - Climb "Barber" route on "Svobodnaya Korea" (20 pitches of ice and some rocks)
    • Day 11 - Coming back to Bishkek
    • Day 12 - Reserve day
  • Required equipment and clothing
    Personal gear
    • Harness
    • Helmet
    • Backpack
    • Headlamp
    • Lanyard
    • Tube-style belay device
    • Locking carabiners - 3
    • Crampons
    • Ice tools
    • Lanyard for ice tools

    Group gear (for 2 climbers)

    • Dymanic Rope (half or twin) - 2x60 m
    • 6 mm cord - 5 m
    • Ice screws - 14
    • Quickdraws - 10
    • Open loop slings - 2 x 120 cm
    • Locking carabiners - 2
    • Non-Locking carabiners - 4
    • V-thread hook

    Clothing
    The temperature could easily drop to -30°C Please keep this in mind!

    • Double boots compatible with automatic ice crampons
    • Base layer
    • Mid-layer insulated jacket
    • Windproof insulated jacket
    • Down Jacket
    • Softshell pants
    • Full-zip insulated pants
    • Gloves for climbing
    • Mittens
    • Hat
    • Buff
    • Warm Socks

    • Sleeping bag
  • Terms of participation
    • Dates of the course: Upon request from September to March
    • The cost of the course will depend on several factors, including the complexity of the routes, the duration of the trip, and the size of the group. We will be happy to provide you with a quote once we have more information about your specific needs.

    • SERVICES INCLUDED IN THE PACKAGE:
    - English-speaking guide services
    - Transfer from Bishkek and back
    - National Park fee

    • SERVICES NOT INCLUDED IN THE PACKAGE:
    - Personal equipment
    - Accommodation on Razeka Hut - Base camp for all climbs in the area - with meal costs around 35 $ per person / day
    - Insurance policy

    • Participants are advised to carry sufficient medical transportation insurance (for active recreation)