Ice Climbing
in Ala-Archa
in Ala-Archa
Climb Alpine Ice in the best location in
Central Asia
Central Asia
Ice Climbing in Ala-Archa
Climb Alpine Ice in the best location in Central Asia
About the program
During the program you will learn how to climb ice fast and safe. The program is customized based on your experience, the routes you are going to climb, and the time available.
With the beginners, we will start with the basics of ice climbing. We will learn how to use crampons and ice tools, how to set ice screws and make Abalakov threads for descending from ice routes.
If you already have experience in ice climbing, we can skip the introductory part and move onto more challenging routes. In Ala-Archa, there are options for climbers of all skill levels.
With the beginners, we will start with the basics of ice climbing. We will learn how to use crampons and ice tools, how to set ice screws and make Abalakov threads for descending from ice routes.
If you already have experience in ice climbing, we can skip the introductory part and move onto more challenging routes. In Ala-Archa, there are options for climbers of all skill levels.
- DatesFrom September to March
- DurationUpon request
- LocationAla-Archa, Kyrgyzstan
- CostUpon request
-
DatesFrom September to March -
DurationUpon request -
LocationAla-Archa, Kyrgyzstan -
CostUpon request
Ala-Archa
One of the best places for alpine ice climbing and technical mountaineering in Central Asia is Ala-Archa. It's is a cult place in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
Here are dozens of routes, ranging from easy ones suitable for beginners to challenging big walls. The relief here is mostly mixed, but there are also purely rocky routes and ice routes.
Free Korea, Korona, Semenov-Tien-Shansky, Baychechekey, Box and others are the peaks of the Ak-Sai gorge. Here are the famous routes of Low and Barber to "Korea" and many others.
Altitudes up to 4,800 meters require a short period of acclimatization. This makes them accessible through a properly structured training process, with our guidance.
Here you can climb all year round:
On mixed routes from September to March
On rocky routes from May to the end of September
On ice routes from September to March
Guidebook of Alpine Routes in Ala-Archa
Here are dozens of routes, ranging from easy ones suitable for beginners to challenging big walls. The relief here is mostly mixed, but there are also purely rocky routes and ice routes.
Free Korea, Korona, Semenov-Tien-Shansky, Baychechekey, Box and others are the peaks of the Ak-Sai gorge. Here are the famous routes of Low and Barber to "Korea" and many others.
Altitudes up to 4,800 meters require a short period of acclimatization. This makes them accessible through a properly structured training process, with our guidance.
Here you can climb all year round:
On mixed routes from September to March
On rocky routes from May to the end of September
On ice routes from September to March
Guidebook of Alpine Routes in Ala-Archa
Details
The cost of the program will vary depending on several factors, such as the difficulty of the routes, the length of the trip, and the number of participants. We will be able to provide you with an accurate quote once we know more about your specific requirements.
What's included:
Not included:
What's included:
- English-speaking instructor.
- Round transfer from Bishkek.
- National park fee.
- Accommodation in a shared room in a Razek hut. It is possible to stay in a six-bed room for an extra fee.
- Meals at Razek hut - full board.
Not included:
- Accommodation in Bishkek before or after the program.
- Personal gear (see gear list).
- Porters (If necessary, porters can be provided from the parking lot to the Razek hut.)
- Rescue Insurance.
The program is customized based on your experience, the routes you are going to climb, and the time available.
Here is an 8-day program for intermediate climbers, featuring three classic winter routes of Ala-Archa:
A more challenging program, featuring the "Barber" route to "Svobodnaya Korea" peak:
Here is an 8-day program for intermediate climbers, featuring three classic winter routes of Ala-Archa:
- Day 1 - Meet in Bishkek, drive to Ala-Archa, hike to Razek Hut (around 4-6 hours)
- Day 2 - Training on a glacier
- Day 3 - Climb Akimov route on "Korona Fence" (300m of 50° ice)
- Day 4 - Rest day
- Day 5 - Climb Plotnikov route on "Korona Fence" (500m of 50° ice)
- Day 6 - Rest day
- Day 7 - Climb the "River" route to "Baychechekey" (550m up to 80° at the crux)
- Day 8 - Coming back to Bishkek
A more challenging program, featuring the "Barber" route to "Svobodnaya Korea" peak:
- Day 1 - Meet in Bishkek, drive to Ala-Archa, Hike to Razek Hut (around 4-6 hours)
- Day 2 - Training on a glacier
- Day 3 - Climb Akimov route on "Korona Fence" (300m of 50° ice)
- Day 4 - Climb the "River" route to "Baychechekey" (550m up to 80° at the crux)
- Day 5 - Rest day
- Day 6 - Climb Plotnikov route on "Korona Fence" (500m of 50° ice), coming back to Bishkek
- Day 7 - Rest day in the city
- Day 8 - Rest day in the city
- Day 9 - Drive to Ala-Archa, hike to Korona Hut
- Day 10 - Climb "Barber" route on "Svobodnaya Korea" (900m of ice up to 80° and some rocks)
- Day 11 - Coming back to Bishkek
- Day 12 - Reserve day
Personal gear
Clothing
The temperature could easily drop to -30°C Please keep this in mind!
If you don't have all the necessary equipment, we can rent it to you.
- Ice tools
- Lanyard for ice tools
- Carytool - 2
- Crampons (Automatic or semi-automatic crampons for ice climbing)
- Harness
- Lanyard
- Tube-style belay device
- Locking carabiners - 3
- Helmet
- Backpack
- Headlamp
- Trekking poles (if you use them)
- Thermos 0.7-1 l
- Sunglasses
Group gear (for 2 climbers)
- Dymanic Rope (half or twin) - 2x60 m
- 6 mm cord - 5 m
- Ice screws - 14
- Quickdraws - 10
- Open loop slings - 2 x 120 cm
- Locking carabiners - 2
- Non-Locking carabiners - 4
- V-thread hook
Clothing
The temperature could easily drop to -30°C Please keep this in mind!
- Double boots compatible with automatic ice crampons
- Base layer
- Mid-layer insulated jacket
- Windproof insulated jacket
- Down Jacket
- Softshell pants
- Full-zip insulated pants
- Gloves for climbing
- Mittens
- Hat
- Buff
- Warm Socks
- Sleeping bag
If you don't have all the necessary equipment, we can rent it to you.
The program is not recommended for total beginners. To participate, you should have some experience in mountaineering and be familiar with basic climbing techniques, such as belaying and abseiling.
Ala-Archa in winter can be a challenging place to learn mountaineering basics. While previous ice climbing experience can be beneficial, it is not required. In any case, the program will be customized to your level of experience and goals.
To participate, you must be in good physical shape and have the motivation to climb in difficult weather conditions.
Ala-Archa in winter can be a challenging place to learn mountaineering basics. While previous ice climbing experience can be beneficial, it is not required. In any case, the program will be customized to your level of experience and goals.
To participate, you must be in good physical shape and have the motivation to climb in difficult weather conditions.
Testimonials
- Carson ThomasThis was my second trip with Kostya, and like the first trip, it was challenging, enjoyable, and educational. I have been wanting to develop my alpine ice climbing skills for a long time, and I was able to do exactly that under Kostya's expert eye. We practiced climbing a long alpine route as a party of three (with Egor, who was a terrific partner). And then I got to focus on efficient movement in a team of two for the last route. Overall, the trip was exactly what I was hoping for, and I feel much more ready to take on bigger climbs in the future. I already hope to come back for the Barber route on Free Korea!
- This was my second trip with Kostya, and like the first trip, it was challenging, enjoyable, and educational. I have been wanting to develop my alpine ice climbing skills for a long time, and I was able to do exactly that under Kostya's expert eye. We practiced climbing a long alpine route as a party of three (with Egor, who was a terrific partner). And then I got to focus on efficient movement in a team of two for the last route. Overall, the trip was exactly what I was hoping for, and I feel much more ready to take on bigger climbs in the future. I already hope to come back for the Barber route on Free Korea!Carson Thomas
- Egor KniazevSolid ice climbing program in Ala-Archa — intense, well-structured, and a great opportunity to grow as a climber. The Plotnikov route we did first pushed my limits with acclimatization, but I still managed to lead a few pitches and felt clear progress. The Akimov route was a standout — clean, confident send with zero struggle. Credit to the guide Kostya and teammate Carson for creating a supportive and motivating vibe throughout the trip.
- Solid ice climbing program in Ala-Archa — intense, well-structured, and a great opportunity to grow as a climber. The Plotnikov route we did first pushed my limits with acclimatization, but I still managed to lead a few pitches and felt clear progress. The Akimov route was a standout — clean, confident send with zero struggle. Credit to the guide Kostya and teammate Carson for creating a supportive and motivating vibe throughout the trip.Egor Kniazev
- Mikhail AlekseevOn my way to Ala Archa I didn't expect much because I wasn't sure about my fitness and ice climbing skills. But moving from easy to harder routes Kostya and I got to the summit of Free Korea peak finishing Barber route. After that trip and amount of climbed ice I feel much more confident even on a very steep ice and waterfalls.
- On my way to Ala Archa I didn't expect much because I wasn't sure about my fitness and ice climbing skills. But moving from easy to harder routes Kostya and I got to the summit of Free Korea peak finishing Barber route. After that trip and amount of climbed ice I feel much more confident even on a very steep ice and waterfalls.Mikhail Alekseev
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