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Talgar Summit
Climb the highest mountain in the Ile Alatau range
4,979 m
4,979 m
Talgar Summit
Climb the highest mountain in the Ile Alatau range
4,979 m
4,979 m
About the program
Talgar Peak, 4,979 meters, is the highest mountain in the Ile Alatau range and one of the landmark summits of Kazakhstan. There are no hiking routes to the summit. The easiest route, from the Korzhenevsky Glacier, is graded 3A.
The approach to the mountain goes across glaciers and passes and can take several days. The full ascent usually takes 7 to 10 days, depending on the route and weather conditions.
We can organize the ascent as a private program or for a small group of up to 4 people with two experienced guides.
Русская версия
The approach to the mountain goes across glaciers and passes and can take several days. The full ascent usually takes 7 to 10 days, depending on the route and weather conditions.
We can organize the ascent as a private program or for a small group of up to 4 people with two experienced guides.
Русская версия
- DatesJuly to September
- Duration7-10 days
- LocationAlmaty, Kazakhstan
- CostUpon request
-
DatesJuly to September -
Duration7-10 days -
LocationAlmaty, Kazakhstan -
CostUpon request
photo Vitaliy Rage
Details
1 person — 3,930 EUR
2 people — 4,670 EUR total (2,335 EUR per person)
3 people — 6,750 EUR total (2,250 EUR per person)
4 people — 7,920 EUR total (1,980 EUR per person)
Please check the booking and payment terms
What's included:
Not included:
2 people — 4,670 EUR total (2,335 EUR per person)
3 people — 6,750 EUR total (2,250 EUR per person)
4 people — 7,920 EUR total (1,980 EUR per person)
Please check the booking and payment terms
What's included:
- English-speaking instructors
- Round-trip transfer from Almaty
- National park fee
- All special climbing equipment for the group
- Expedition food, including freeze-dried meals
Not included:
- Accommodation in Almaty before or after the program
- Transfer from the airport or hotel to the meeting place in Almaty
- Rescue / travel insurance
- Personal gear (see gear list)
Ascent program with an approach through the Issyk Gorge. Other approach options are also possible through Middle and Left Talgar, as well as through the Turgen Gorge. We will choose the best option depending on the condition of river crossings and trails.
The program may be adjusted depending on weather and route conditions.
- Day 1 — The trek starts at Issyk Lake. We follow the trail up along the river and camp in a meadow near its source.
- Day 2 — We continue the ascent, pass Akkol Lake and move towards Kokbulak Pass. Overnight on alpine meadows below the pass.
- Day 3 — We climb from the gorge to Kokbulak Pass, then make a radial ascent of Kokbulak Peak, 4,555 m. From the summit, there are good views of the surrounding peaks and Talgar Peak. After that, we descend from the pass to the Korzhenevsky Glacier.
- Day 4 — Early in the morning, we enter the glacier. We move roped together because of crevasses. By midday, we reach the Gorin Glacier, the base camp for the ascent.
- Day 5 — Early in the morning, we start the summit ascent. We climb a steep snow slope, then follow the ridge to the summit. Descent by the same route.
- Day 6 — We return from the Gorin Glacier through Kokbulak Pass and descend to Akkol Lake, where we stay overnight.
- Day 7 — Depending on the condition of the group, we either return to the cars or spend one more night near the Issyk River.
- Days 8–9 — Reserve days for bad weather and rest.
The program may be adjusted depending on weather and route conditions.
We provide all special climbing equipment for the group, including ropes, slings, quickdraws and ice screws. You only need personal equipment and clothing:
Personal gear
Clothing
If you do not have all the necessary equipment, we can provide rental gear
Personal gear
- Harness
- Helmet
- Belay device
- 3 locking carabiners
- Ice axe
- Crampons (automatic or semi-automatic crampons)
- 6 mm cord – 5 m
- Backpack 60–80 L
- Headlamp
- Trekking poles (if you use them)
- Thermos, 0.7–1 L
- Sunglasses
Clothing
- Mountaineering boots, single-layer insulated leather boots compatible with automatic or semi-automatic crampons, such as La Sportiva Nepal.
- Base layer
- Mid-layer insulated jacket
- Waterproof hardshell jacket and pants
- Down jacket
- Softshell pants
- Gloves for climbing
- Mittens
- Hat
- Buff
Camping gear
- Sleeping mat
- Sleeping bag, comfort rating 0°C to -5°C
- Tent
- Tableware set: mug, bowl and spoon
If you do not have all the necessary equipment, we can provide rental gear
This ascent requires good physical fitness and basic mountaineering experience. Participants should be able to move in a rope team on a glacier, use crampons and work with an ice axe.
You should also be ready to carry a 20–25 kg backpack. Each participant carries their own gear and clothing, as well as part of the group equipment and food. Porter service can be arranged if needed.
You should also be ready to carry a 20–25 kg backpack. Each participant carries their own gear and clothing, as well as part of the group equipment and food. Porter service can be arranged if needed.