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New Climbing Routes at Butakovskiy Waterfall
Ice · Mixed · Drytooling · Sport climbing
New Climbing Routes
at Butakovskiy
Waterfall
Ice · Mixed · Drytooling
Sport climbing
Sport climbing
Guide, topo and route development by Konstantin Markevich
Last updated: June 2026
Butakovskiy Waterfall is one of our long-running route development projects near Almaty.
We started bolting routes here in January 2024 and continue to add new lines from time to time. This page is updated periodically as new routes are added and grades are clarified.
All bolted routes use Raumer Ø12×120 mm double-expansion stainless steel anchors. Each anchor station has two bolts with rings for rappelling.
Route color legend
Red — drytooling in winter / sport climbing in summer
Blue — ice and mixed climbing in winter only
Green — sport climbing in summer only
Last updated: June 2026
Butakovskiy Waterfall is one of our long-running route development projects near Almaty.
We started bolting routes here in January 2024 and continue to add new lines from time to time. This page is updated periodically as new routes are added and grades are clarified.
All bolted routes use Raumer Ø12×120 mm double-expansion stainless steel anchors. Each anchor station has two bolts with rings for rappelling.
Route color legend
Red — drytooling in winter / sport climbing in summer
Blue — ice and mixed climbing in winter only
Green — sport climbing in summer only
Routes near the waterfall
1 — D7 / 7a+ — 11 quickdraws
2 — 6c — 8 quickdraws
3 — D6 / 6b — 11 quickdraws
4 — D5 / 5c+ — 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route №3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 — M(?) — TRAD
2 — 6c — 8 quickdraws
3 — D6 / 6b — 11 quickdraws
4 — D5 / 5c+ — 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route №3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 — M(?) — TRAD
Routes on the left side
1 — 5b — 7 quickdraws
Short and simple route along the ridge.
2 — D4 / 6a+ — TRAD
3 — 5c/6b+ — 7 quickdraws
Using the cracks on either side, it’s around 5c–6a. Climbing directly up the slab is much harder.
4 — D4 / 5c — TRAD
5 — D4 / 5a — TRAD
6 — D4 / 5c — TRAD
Short and simple route along the ridge.
2 — D4 / 6a+ — TRAD
3 — 5c/6b+ — 7 quickdraws
Using the cracks on either side, it’s around 5c–6a. Climbing directly up the slab is much harder.
4 — D4 / 5c — TRAD
5 — D4 / 5a — TRAD
6 — D4 / 5c — TRAD
7 — 5c-6а — 15 quickdraws (30m)
A beautiful and simple route along the ridge. Highly recommended!
7* — 5c-6а — TRAD
TRAD option of the route 7. You can climb with your gear up to the crux and then use bolts of the route 7.
8 — D5 / 6b — 12 quickdraws
Corner. Do not go too far into the corner at the middle part. There are still some loose stones there. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
9 — D6-D7 / 6c-7a — 13 quickdraws
"A crack with Bats". Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
10 — D6 / 6b+ — 14 quickdraws
You can climb different connections of routes 9,10 and 10*. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
10* — 6a-6b — TRAD
A route option along a nice crack leading to the anchors of route №12. No bolts, only TRAD.
11 — 6b+ — 7 quickdraws
You can climb this route starting from the anchors of routes 8, 9, 10, and 12.
12 — 7a+ — 14 quickdraws.
13 — D5 / 6а-6b — 15 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
14 — D6 / 6b — 14 quickdraws (check) (35 m)
15 — D4-D5 / 5c — 14 quickdraws
Also suitable for TRAD climbing.
16 — D7 (?) / 6b+ — 13 quickdraws
A beautiful and simple route along the ridge. Highly recommended!
7* — 5c-6а — TRAD
TRAD option of the route 7. You can climb with your gear up to the crux and then use bolts of the route 7.
8 — D5 / 6b — 12 quickdraws
Corner. Do not go too far into the corner at the middle part. There are still some loose stones there. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
9 — D6-D7 / 6c-7a — 13 quickdraws
"A crack with Bats". Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
10 — D6 / 6b+ — 14 quickdraws
You can climb different connections of routes 9,10 and 10*. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
10* — 6a-6b — TRAD
A route option along a nice crack leading to the anchors of route №12. No bolts, only TRAD.
11 — 6b+ — 7 quickdraws
You can climb this route starting from the anchors of routes 8, 9, 10, and 12.
12 — 7a+ — 14 quickdraws.
13 — D5 / 6а-6b — 15 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
14 — D6 / 6b — 14 quickdraws (check) (35 m)
15 — D4-D5 / 5c — 14 quickdraws
Also suitable for TRAD climbing.
16 — D7 (?) / 6b+ — 13 quickdraws
Routes on the right side
1 — WI3 — TRAD
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 — M8 — 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 — D9 / 7c (project) — 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 — 6c+ - 7a — 11 quickdraws
5 — D6 / 6b — 10 quickdraws
6 — D? / 6? — 5 quickdraws
check
7 — 6b — 16 quickdraws
Follow the ridge.
8 — D4 / 6а — 16 quickdraws
It's getting easier if you use steps in the corner.
9 — D7 / 6c — 14 quickdraws.
The route along the thin crack. Good for drytooling and TRAD climbing.
10 — 6a-6b — 17 quickdraws.
"Anchar"
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 — M8 — 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 — D9 / 7c (project) — 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 — 6c+ - 7a — 11 quickdraws
5 — D6 / 6b — 10 quickdraws
6 — D? / 6? — 5 quickdraws
check
7 — 6b — 16 quickdraws
Follow the ridge.
8 — D4 / 6а — 16 quickdraws
It's getting easier if you use steps in the corner.
9 — D7 / 6c — 14 quickdraws.
The route along the thin crack. Good for drytooling and TRAD climbing.
10 — 6a-6b — 17 quickdraws.
"Anchar"
11 — Unfinished.
12 — D6 / 6b+ — 8 quickdraws.
Also suitable for TRAD climbing.
13 — Unfinished.
14 — 5c+ — 8 quickdraws.
The route can be climbed in a single pitch from the ground. In that case, you’ll need a 60-meter rope and 16 quickdraws. Also suitable for TRAD climbing.
15 — 6c — 8 quickdraws.
The route can be climbed in a single pitch from the ground. In that case, you’ll need a 60-meter rope and 16 quickdraws.
12 — D6 / 6b+ — 8 quickdraws.
Also suitable for TRAD climbing.
13 — Unfinished.
14 — 5c+ — 8 quickdraws.
The route can be climbed in a single pitch from the ground. In that case, you’ll need a 60-meter rope and 16 quickdraws. Also suitable for TRAD climbing.
15 — 6c — 8 quickdraws.
The route can be climbed in a single pitch from the ground. In that case, you’ll need a 60-meter rope and 16 quickdraws.
16 — D4 / 5c — TRAD
17 — 7b — 11 quickdraws.
"Zmey Gorynych"
18 — D5 / 6a–6b — 10 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
19 — Unfinished.
20 — D5 / 5c — 6 quickdraws
17 — 7b — 11 quickdraws.
"Zmey Gorynych"
18 — D5 / 6a–6b — 10 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
19 — Unfinished.
20 — D5 / 5c — 6 quickdraws