New Climbing Routes at Butakovskiy Waterfall
For Ice, Mixed, Drytooling and Sport climbing
New Routes
at Butakovskiy
Waterfall
at Butakovskiy
Waterfall
For Ice, Mixed, Drytooling
and Sport climbing
and Sport climbing
One of our long-running projects is the development of a climbing location at the Butakovskiy waterfall.
We started bolting routes here in January 2024 and continue to add new ones from time to time. The page will be updated periodically as new routes are added and the difficulty grades are clarified. We use Raumer Ø12x120mm double expanding stainless steel anchors, and at each station, you will find two anchors with rings for rappelling.
Most of the routes are made for year-round use.
UPD - MAY 2025
We started bolting routes here in January 2024 and continue to add new ones from time to time. The page will be updated periodically as new routes are added and the difficulty grades are clarified. We use Raumer Ø12x120mm double expanding stainless steel anchors, and at each station, you will find two anchors with rings for rappelling.
Most of the routes are made for year-round use.
- The routes marked in red are suitable for drytooling in winter and regular sport climbing in summer.
- The routes marked in blue are suitable for ice and mixed climbing in winter only.
- The routes marked in green are suitable for regular sport climbing in summer only.
UPD - MAY 2025
Routes near the waterfall
Bolted in 2024
1 - D7 / 7a+ - 7b - 11 quickdraws
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
1 - WI3 - TRAD
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (project) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (project) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
1 - WI3 - TRAD
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (?) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (?) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
1 - D7 / 7a+ - 7b - 11 quickdraws
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
Routes on the left side
Bolted in 2024 -2025
1 - D5 / 6a - TRAD
2 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
3 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
4 - 5c-6а - 15 quickdraws (30m)
A beautiful and simple route along the ridge. Highly recommended!
4* - 5c-6а - TRAD
TRAD option of the route 4. You can climb with your gear up to the crux and then use bolts of the route 4.
5 - D5 / 6b - 12 quickdraws
Corner. Do not go too far into the corner at the middle part. There are still some loose stones there. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
6 - D6-D7 / 6c-7a - 13 quickdraws
"A crack with Bats". Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
2 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
3 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
4 - 5c-6а - 15 quickdraws (30m)
A beautiful and simple route along the ridge. Highly recommended!
4* - 5c-6а - TRAD
TRAD option of the route 4. You can climb with your gear up to the crux and then use bolts of the route 4.
5 - D5 / 6b - 12 quickdraws
Corner. Do not go too far into the corner at the middle part. There are still some loose stones there. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
6 - D6-D7 / 6c-7a - 13 quickdraws
"A crack with Bats". Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7 - D6 / 6b+ - 14 quickdraws
You can climb different connections of routes 6,7 and 7*. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7* - 6a-6b - TRAD
A route option along a nice crack leading to the anchors of route №9. No bolts, only TRAD.
8 - 6b+ - 7 quickdraws
You can climb this route starting from the anchors of routes 5, 6, 7, and 9.
9 - 7(?) - 14 quickdraws
10 - D5 / 6а-6b - 15 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
11 - D6 / 6a+ - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №10, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
12 - D4-D5 / 5c - TRAD
You can climb different connections of routes 6,7 and 7*. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7* - 6a-6b - TRAD
A route option along a nice crack leading to the anchors of route №9. No bolts, only TRAD.
8 - 6b+ - 7 quickdraws
You can climb this route starting from the anchors of routes 5, 6, 7, and 9.
9 - 7(?) - 14 quickdraws
10 - D5 / 6а-6b - 15 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
11 - D6 / 6a+ - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №10, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
12 - D4-D5 / 5c - TRAD
1 - D5 / 6a - TRAD
2 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
3 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
4 - 5c-6а - 15 quickdraws (30m)
A beautiful and simple route along the ridge. Highly recommended!
4* - 5c-6а - TRAD
TRAD option of the route 4. You can climb with your gear up to the crux and then use bolts of the route 4.
5 - D5 / 6b - 12 quickdraws
Corner. Do not go too far into the corner at the middle part. There are still some loose stones there. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
6 - D6-D7 / 6c-7a - 13 quickdraws
"A crack with Bats". Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7 - D6 / 6b+ - 14 quickdraws
You can climb different connections of routes 6,7 and 7*. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7* - 6a-6b - TRAD
A route option along a nice crack leading to the anchors of route №9. No bolts, only TRAD.
8 - 6b+ - 7 quickdraws
You can climb this route starting from the anchors of routes 5, 6, 7, and 9.
9 - 7(?) - 14 quickdraws
10 - D5 / 6а-6b - 15 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
11 - D6 / 6a+ - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №10, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
12 - D4-D5 / 5c - TRAD
2 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
3 - D4 / 5c-6a - TRAD
4 - 5c-6а - 15 quickdraws (30m)
A beautiful and simple route along the ridge. Highly recommended!
4* - 5c-6а - TRAD
TRAD option of the route 4. You can climb with your gear up to the crux and then use bolts of the route 4.
5 - D5 / 6b - 12 quickdraws
Corner. Do not go too far into the corner at the middle part. There are still some loose stones there. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
6 - D6-D7 / 6c-7a - 13 quickdraws
"A crack with Bats". Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7 - D6 / 6b+ - 14 quickdraws
You can climb different connections of routes 6,7 and 7*. Jamming skills and crack gloves will help. This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
7* - 6a-6b - TRAD
A route option along a nice crack leading to the anchors of route №9. No bolts, only TRAD.
8 - 6b+ - 7 quickdraws
You can climb this route starting from the anchors of routes 5, 6, 7, and 9.
9 - 7(?) - 14 quickdraws
10 - D5 / 6а-6b - 15 quickdraws
This route is also suitable for TRAD climbing.
11 - D6 / 6a+ - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №10, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
12 - D4-D5 / 5c - TRAD