New Climbing Routes at Butakovskiy Waterfall
For Ice, Mixed, Drytooling and Sport climbing
New Routes
at Butakovskiy
Waterfall
at Butakovskiy
Waterfall
For Ice, Mixed, Drytooling
and Sport climbing
and Sport climbing
One of our long-running projects is the development of a climbing location at the Butakovskiy waterfall.
Here is the first set of routes that we created in 2024. The page will be updated periodically as new routes are added and the difficulty grades are clarified. We use Raumer Ø12x120mm double expanding stainless steel anchors, and at each station, you will find two anchors with rings.
Here is the first set of routes that we created in 2024. The page will be updated periodically as new routes are added and the difficulty grades are clarified. We use Raumer Ø12x120mm double expanding stainless steel anchors, and at each station, you will find two anchors with rings.
- Most of the routes are made for year-round use. The routes marked in red are suitable for drytooling in winter and regular sport climbing in summer.
- The routes marked in blue are suitable for ice and mixed climbing in winter only.
- The routes marked in green are suitable for regular sport climbing in summer only.
Routes near the waterfall
1 - D7 / 7a+ - 7b - 11 quickdraws
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
1 - WI3 - TRAD
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (?) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (?) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
1 - WI3 - TRAD
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (?) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
You will need ice screws for protection.
2 - M8 - 12 quickdraws
It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
3 - D9 / 7c (?) - 12 quickdraws
It can be wet in summer up to first quickdraw, usually it is dry after lunch. It is recommended to clip the first 1-2 quickdraws with a stick.
4 - 6c+ - 7a - 11 quickdraws
5 - D6 / 6b - 10 quickdraws
1 - D7 / 7a+ - 7b - 11 quickdraws
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
2 - 6c - 8 quickdraws
3 - D6 / 6b - 11 quickdraws
4 - D5 / 5b-5c - 13 quickdraws
If you want to climb with a top rope, use the station from route number 3. The lower part can be wet in summer.
5 - M(?) - TRAD
Routes on the left side
1 - D5 / 6а - TRAD
There is one anchor under the roof before the traverse.
2 - D5 / 6a+ - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №1, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
There is one anchor under the roof before the traverse.
2 - D5 / 6a+ - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №1, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
1 - D5 / 6а - TRAD
There is one anchor under the roof before the traverse.
2 - D5 / 6a - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №1, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.
There is one anchor under the roof before the traverse.
2 - D5 / 6a - 11 quickdraws (35 m)
You can climb this route starting from the same ledge as №1, then 60 meters of rope will be enough.